History and Development of World Fashion
The development of world fashion has always been influenced by the social conditions that occurred in its time, which is also called vice versa. This development is aimed at urban or general fashion that was often used by the world community in its time, focusing on women's clothing that is always changing and dynamic because the development of men's fashion has had a cognate aesthetic and rarely changed for decades.
At the beginning of the 20th century, women still followed the style of the previous century, which was to use a tight corset. In 1912, Paul Poiret released women from the shackles of the corset. This decade was the beginning of the emancipation of modern women's dressing styles. This time was a new century when the fashion world was reborn with a different outlook.
The latest innovations have emerged from world designers, such as Coco Chanel, Madeleine Vionnette and Elsa Schiaparelli, who present pieces, colors, and styles that have an androgynous character. Uniquely, at this time fashion has collaborated with other arts, such as painting inspired by Salvadore Dali and Pablo Picasso. It was from here that the fashion world began to flutter until now, with the division of terms and periods of its development encompassing lappers (1920s); Chanel Look (1930s); war and working class (1940s); new look, pin up and teddy boys (1950s); camiseta, mods, and skinheads (1960s); hippies, disco, punks and skaters (1970s); new wave, aerobic, yuppie, and casual (1980s); supermarket of style, grunge, and mix up (1990s); and the 2000s and above.
FLAPPER (1920s). In the period after World War I, America entered a prosperous era and played an important role in the dress style of 1920. Flapper style fashion which means New Breed appears. At this time, females begin to receive attention. Entering the labor force in large numbers, the decade of fashion entered the modern era as they began to break free from the construction of excruciating clothes and began to wear comfortable clothes, such as short skirts or pants. This decade was also influenced by the Art Deco style accompanied by Charleston music. Men abandoned too formal clothes and began to wear sportswear for the first time. The style of dress has become more casual and less glamorous than in previous decades, with the characteristic clothing being looser than thick and covered fabrics. Continuing into 1925, fashion style has been associated with the passionate Roaring Twenties and continued to characterize fashion until 1930.
CHANEL LOOK (1930s). In the 1930s, the effects of the Great Depression began to affect world society and the development of more conservative fashion for refugees. For women, long skirts can bring back a traditional, feminine look. However, the fashion traits of the 1920s still took longer to abolish. Tiny hats remained popular until about 1933, while short hair remained popular with many women until the end of the decade. As for men, the noticeable change is the variety of colors that become softer.
WAR AND WORKING CLASS (1940S). World War II led to the influence of world fashion styles. Clothing factories were used for weapons manufacturing facilities. The material for making woolen fabrics was used to fund the war so that synthetic products such as stockings and underwear made of nylon appeared.
Clothing shades are made black and navy shades with brown and blackish green tones. The clothes used are mostly comfortable clothes to use and the majority combine them with 1930s-era clothing. In addition, what became a fashion trend in the 1940s was a hair-covering headband for female workers. This period was marked by the large number of female laborers as laborers, and began to use clothes that were often used by men, such as work clothes or the combination of workshop coats with female subordinates.
Paris being isolated in the 1940s made America take advantage of the ingenuity and creativity of its designers. Actresses such as Rita Hayworth, Katharine Hepburn, and Marlene Dietrich had a great influence on the popular fashion of the time.
NEW LOOK, PIN UP AND TEDDY BOYS (1950S). The development of 1950s fashion, far from the revolutionary and progressive side gave birth to strong nostalgic echoes of the past.
Then Haute Couture Christian Dior created his match with the launch of the first collection in February 1947 of a collection of dresses with a small waist and a full skirt spread out under the small bodice (New Look).
Despite the fact that women already have the right to choose, work, and drive their own cars, they still wear dresses made of luxurious materials, with waisted tops and skirts plus a petty coat until mid-calf.
After World War II, artificial textile technology began to develop. Clothes are made with nylon, orlon, and dakron fabrics. The fashion of this decade refers to a fresher image, but not as glamorous as it was in 1920. Fashion approaches across the women's line began to be introduced in the 1950s, marked by youth fashion that began to develop to compete with adult fashion.
The 1950s were also dotted with the development of more urban but still fashionable clothing, influenced by Elvis Presley's Rock and Roll songs, as well as the dress styles of Marilyn Monroe and James Dean. This urban and pop culture style is known as Pin Up which tends to be light and semi-open.
In the 1950s, one of the growing trends was called the Teddy Boys that emerged after a long war in England. From then on, the world community began to realize the importance of unity and wanted to reduce social inequality. Traditional tailors began to introduce one-buttoned suits, long and fitted to the body. The material is from cuffed beledu. But the style of this suit is so flamboyant and elegant that in the eyes of the factory workers, the equality of degrees that have been promised is just nonsense. Young people, however, do not give up. Through their creativity they combine passion through elegant, effective, and powerful clothing styles, which are worn daily and known as Teddy Boys.
CAMISETA, MODS, AND SKINHEADS (1960S). The year 1960 was also dotted with the emergence of youth movements opposed to the government. The role and dominance of young people began to be seen in the development of the world that influenced the dress style of the general public. The culture of wearing jeans and T-shirts was first popular at this time. The term Camiseta itself means t-shirt in Spanish.
Until the 1960s, Paris was considered the fashion center of the world with the influence of designers Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, and Pierre Balmain. However, between 1960 and 1969 there was a shock to the basic structure of fashion. From 1960 onwards there was only one fashion trend that developed due to the prevailing influence of people's lives. Designers such as Mary Quant and Andre Courreges with a model named Twiggy play a role in independent youth fashion, which is not based on older age groups.
In stark contrast to the style of their predecessors, it was the women from the 1960s who adopted a childish style, with straight short skirts reminiscent of the look of the 1920s. A fundamental change in men's clothing of the 1960s was in the type of fabric used. The spread of jeans serves to accelerate radical change.
The fashion that developed in the 1960s is also known as mods, which comes from the word modernist, expressing the absence of class differences through the clothes worn, as well as minimalism. The character mods for men are neatly cut hair, a round shirt collar, a short, three-buttoned roman-type jacket, narrowed pants with no folds underneath and pointed shoes. While the mods styles for women are neat sponged hair, bob cuts, seamless stockings, simple skirts, short blazers and pointed shoes. Mods provide inspiration for the emphasis on the meaning of "less is more".However, this style is not liked by the public. Then came the rebellion through fashion that showed the identity of the lower middle class with the majority of factory workers so that the skinheads fashion developed which was born with a large boots style such as Doc Marten's shoes, tight jeans, factory workers' jackets and the characteristic bald head.
HIPPIES, DISCO, PUNKS AND SKATERS (1970S). "Please Yourself" is a slogan from the 1970s, which many see as the end of good style. In this decade there emerged an anti-government movement that opposed the Vietnam war and was known as the hippie, which was influenced by bohemian styles. The hippie style is synonymous with loose clothing that shows their closeness to nature. Peace-loving, back-to-nature living, and protest inspired the lives of hippies. Through the lower power motto, they show the influence of dressing, namely bright colors and motifs, as well as wide clothes and pants.
This decade continued with the style that emerged in the late 1960s. Jeans remain in tatters, tiedye is still popular, and fashion for unisex is mushrooming. The 1970s, it was also literally a decade of "anything". No matter what the style, making this fashion slogan has reached its peak in the 1970s.
At the beginning of this decade, the style of the rastafarians, supported by the legend Bob Marley, was demonstrated by the use of belts, hand tires, hats, and t-shirts, the colors of which correspond to ethiopia's sacred flags of red, gold and green. The hairstyles of these people also imitate a unique character that is easily recognized by small braided hair or dreadlocks. This dreadlock style is preferred for its manufacture and maintenance using traditional and natural ingredients.
In addition, the sport of skating is gaining popularity and skaters usually show off their attractions in the arena to play. Then they started playing in public places and skaters began to influence the style of dress with the use of loose pants, t-shirts with graphic image screen printing and bright colors.
Then in the late 1970s it was famous for its disco music culture. The style of dress at this time was dominated by young people with the use of tight tops, flat-bottomed shoes, and bell bottoms and hairstyles pulled back, such as the style of actor John Travolta with his famous film "Saturday Night Fever.".
The late 1970s were also enlivened by punk dress styles. This style originated in England, then spread in the United States and the world. This genre originated from a band called the Sex Pistols with its song "God Save he Queen".The punks also opposed political conditions synonymous with a sub-culture culture that explicitly opposed dirty politics, implementing independent, straightforward, and liberty lives. The punk dress style is synonymous with sharp spike hair, black clothes with sharp metal ornaments and striking make-up. In this decade also emerged designers, such as Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler, Kenzo, and Hanae Mori.
NEW WAVE, AEROBIC, YUPPIE, AND CASUAL (1980S). During the end of the 20th century, fashion began to enter the era of mixing and matching everything. Western popular styles are adopted all over the world, and many designers from the East have a profound impact on fashion. Synthetic materials such as lycra, spandex, and viscose became widely used. Fashion shows began to be shown a lot on television as well as taking high priority in the social calendar of fashionistas. The world designers of this decade are Donna Karan, Gianni Versace, Giafranco Ferre, Norma Kamali, Calvin Klein, and Anne Klein.
Fashion trends are again looking back in time, evening dresses and baroque long dresses are reappearing. T-shirts and jeans are gaining popularity among teenagers. At this time, music remained an important part of the urban style of dress in the early 1980s. Still influenced by punk culture, the new wave offers a style of dress that is more accepted by the general public.
The influence of more affordable television and film caused this fashion culture in 1980 to spread more quickly. The 1980s were marked by the development of portable technologies such as radios. Music began to be heard on highways, playgrounds, and other public places through radio that carried a disco style. Street-style music with a dress and an outdoor feel, namely rap, began to be loved. The development of technology has also led to lifestyle changes. Workers no longer struggle with machines as laborers because many work indoors with electronic devices in front of them. These workers are not only men, but also women who have begun to enter the career world so that the nickname career and independent women began to be known to the world.
The outbreak of office workers made the fashion trend of the late 1980s called yuppie, which stands for young urban professional or young upwardly-mobile professional. Yuppie style of dress is known for neat office clothes with minimalist accents, including women who start wearing suits combined with skirts or trousers from fabric.
Casual shows the success and personal wealth that was born at the same time as Margaret Thatcher's appointment as British Prime Minister so many call this style thatcherism. Casual style is a refinement of the sportive style that makes it more neat and trendy. Casual characteristics wear clothes with high-end labels, for example, Lacoste, Lois, Burberry, and Adidas. Vests and track suit jackets are also very popular at this time.
Thatcherisme
Thatcherism describes the politics of faith, socioeconomic policy, and the Conservative British style of politics during the reign of Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, from 1975 to 1990. In terms of ideology, Thatcherism is a political platform that emphasizes the free market more with control of government spending and withholding taxes combined with elements of British nationalism, both at home and abroad. Thatcherism also emphasizes free market trust in small countries.
Baroness Thatcher, with a background as the daughter of a grocery store owner, has the image of a hard worker. He also believes that the leaders of the States are trying to hinder the progress of the world economy, and oppose policies and monetary cuts in public spending. Although Thatcherism is based on monetary philosophy, Thatcher also wants to put in place the philosophy of daily life, by running state finances such as household finances. So Thatcher introduced the privatisation of state-owned industries, including British Telecom, British Gas, British Airways, and power companies, putting those companies back into private hands.
Thatcher believed that Victorian family values were a way to improve society, which had to do not only with economic means, but also honor and social values. So Thatcherism also relates to the Iron Lady's own personal style, with a casual style that shows her personal success and wealth. This style is distinctively neat and trendy with the characteristics of wearing high-end label clothing.
SUPERMARKET OF STYLE, GRUNGE, AND MIX UP (1990S). The term supermarket of style is used to describe the identity of people who are not loyal to one type of style only because the adherents wear all styles in a mix and match way. Now the style created is no longer as a form of rebellion, but also as an alternative or self-identity. Adherents of this supermarket style of style create their own unique style, with a choice of clothes that are layered or stacked, for example long-sleeved t-shirts stacked with short-sleeved t-shirts plus bandanas with hats.
At this time, bands such as Nirvana and Oasis appeared that took the world by storm. The grunge genre of music originated in the United States which later spread to England. Grunge music became a symbol of the fashion of the 1990s. Despite this, 1990 is known as the worst year in the history of world fashion or known as "he decade fashion has forgotten". This grunge style is similar to the punk style but not so radical. Jeans, t-shirts, and a combination with wide-plaid patterned clothes are identical characteristics of today's dress styles, in addition to long and messy hair as a complement.
Blue jeans with denim jackets in acid wash, baby doll dress, kedodoran t-shirts, sportswear, basketball clothes, baseball clothes, sweatshirts, and sweaters, with a combination of sneakers and keds called mix ups. The fashion styles of the 1960s and 1970s also flourished again in the 1990s with the advent of floral fashion and hippie styles. In this decade, notable designers were Marc Jacobs, John Galliano, Husen Challayan, Vera Wang, Ellie Saab, and Dries Van Nouten.
THE DEVELOPMENT OF FASHION IN 2000. Starting in the 2000s, fashion again looked to the past as a center of inspiration associated with previous decades. Vintage clothing, especially from the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s was back in vogue and designers began to frequently imitate past styles in their collections. At the beginning of this decade, there was also a development of a minimalist look in the 1990s. Designers have also begun to adopt many colors with an 'anti-modern' look. Then the brand became important, especially among young people and many artists began to launch their own clothing lines. Tight clothing and long hair became mainstream for many men and women.
The development of fashion in the 2000s still has very diverse terms and characteristics, just as it happened in the decade from 1970 to 1990:
1. NEW MILLENNIUM. In this decade the definition of fashion is to blend and blend, for example sequins in casual clothes, contradictory materials such as lycra that envelops the body and nylon or polyester materials that are stacked together so that there is no longer a limit that a fashion design is in accordance with its packaging or not. This style also uses an all-silver and futuristic but still glamorous feel that became the beginning of the development of fashion in the 2000s;
2. EMO. In the mid-2000s, it was also dyed in an Emo dress style, with the characteristics of all gothic, black, black eye shadow, and straight hair to the side until it almost covered the eyes. A sharp straight but still long haircut also became a women's hairstyle in 2000;
3. INDIE. In accordance with previous years, sub-culture culture also has a role that carries grunge, punk, and hippie cultures. Indie culture centers on a symbol of growing conservative cultural opposition. The origin of the word indie is independent, or called independent, which reflects the way of choosing clothes that are not affected by the general model. Indie fashion styles are famous for tight pencil jeans, a combination of shorts with shoes, v-neck-shaped t-shirts, or sweaters. In addition, the blend of retro, vintage, modern, colored canvas shoes with colourful shoelaces are some of the character traits of indie clothing, whose dress style is more inclined to the fashion blend of all kinds of clothing but still seems modern.
4. NEW ROMANTIC. England is the country where the emergence of the new romantic style. Its adherents do not want to be confused with punks. To make it look different, they cast a shadow on the eye, added mascara and thick eyeliner that applies to both men and women. An example of an artist with a new romantic style is Freddy Mercury.
5. GOTHIC. Mysterious, happy darkness and wanting to stand out from the rest are the hallmarks of this fashion style. In addition, his devotees were obliged to appear in robes of beledu material. For them, gothic is the incarnation of dracula in the form of luxury. The make-up that forms the emblem of darkness is also a complement to dressing up in addition to tattoos. Their faces should be given a pale white powder, eyebrows formed thin arches and lips given fiery red lipstick. Artists who use this style e.g. Marilyn Manson.
Starting in 2010, another pop culture emerged called hipster. This culture originated in the United States and is pervasive in young people around the world. This dress culture emphasizes self-sustaining, DIY (Do It Yourself), and anticonservative activities. At first, the culture emphasized the fashion models worn by the country's homeless and urbanites.
Hipster culture also emphasizes activities that cannot be separated from personal gadgets, smartphones, laptops, and other personal hardware. This is because in the early 2010s, electronic products such as smartphones have entered almost every country and can be owned by almost every human being. The use of skinny jeans, large glasses, unkempt hair, clothes and shoes, high boots, head coverings, scarves, jackets, carrying an Apple smartphone or laptop, riding a bicycle, wearing a vintage bag, and drinking coffee lattes in the corner of the café are the hallmarks of hipster dress styles.
THE DEVELOPMENT OF FASHION IN ASIA. Slightly different from the development of fashion in the world, there are several Asian countries that play a role in the development of fashion:
Japanese. Since 1970 many Japanese designers have begun to take part in the international fashion world, such as Hanae Mori, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Hiroko Koshino, Junya Watanabe, the Come des Garcons label, to Kenzo. Kenzo is a Japanese fashion designer label that exists in Paris to this day. Through the work of its designers, aided by the presence of a UNIQLO fashion label around the world, Japan can finally be recognized as one of the world's fashion hubs.
Thailand. In 1980 Thailand was quite advanced with its fashion magazines spread all over the world. However, Thai fashion magazines are more specific about displaying fashion products that have craft elements. Thailand also showcases the power of craft through its traditional fabrics such as silk, driven by Queen Sirikit who invented and teamed up with Jim Thomson. In addition, the 1970s to 1980s Thailand was very famous for the publication of fashion magazines and cocktail or party wear fashion patterns. These magazines have become a fashion reference in ASEAN countries. Furthermore, since 2009, Thailand began to have the Bangkok International Fashion Fair and Bangkok International Leather Fair (BIFF & BIL).
Singapore. The country is recognized as a hub for fashion shopping destinations, and a hub for purchasing international brands in Asia. In addition, Singapore began to focus on the competence of the younger generation through competition programs and cooperation programs with ASEAN countries. Although Singapore does not have natural resources and production infrastructure for the fashion industry, it has managed to become one of the world's fashion-hubs or one of the world's fashion cities with the presence of so many international brands that have lagship stores in its elite shopping areas. In terms of MICE, design and fashion exhibitions are found in Singapore.
The People's Republic of China is a country known as a manufacturer of lower-middle-class fashion products. Since the 1980s, the PRC has been renowned as a subcontractor/CMT (Cut, Make, Trim) for international brands. Starting from that period, so many famous brands such as Giorgio Armani, Anne Klein, Esprit, Nino Cerutti, Pierre Cardin, have been produced in the PRC for the American market that in the 1990s, the PRC began to be known as the largest supplier of fashion products worldwide in the lower to upper middle class at very competitive prices at its level. Its fashion products are not just basic products, but also follow the direction of world trends.
Korea is a country with a fairly developed fashion industry, especially its textile industry. Since the 1990s, Korea has made a breakthrough through the music and film industry (commonly called K-Pop and K-Drama) in bringing its fashion industry with it into one of the new style choices that are much loved by the younger generation of the world. In the 2000s, Korean films flooded the world cinema. Not only is the film loved by the world, but the music (with its captivating video clips) is an alluring treat for the people of the world. The style of dress to hairstyle and makeup of Korean artists or celebrities is an inspiration for many teenagers around the world. Edgy, girlie, and gothic fashion styles are role models for many of the world's fashion conscious teenagers.
India is a country that supplies a lot of fabrics/textiles around the world, such as saree, wool, and cashmere. The highly diverse art of textile weaving became a vital textile industry in India because of the thought of its philosophers: that the welfare of the Indian people should depart from the hands of its citizens. Women and children are usually the workers. Besides being the world's largest supplier of craft textiles, India is also known for its major industrial textile entrepreneurs in the world. This is characterized by the large number of Indian textile products that rule the world, as well as the large number of people of Indian descent who control the textile trade in several countries outside India such as, Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, and the Middle East.
Hong Kong. In 1966, the country established the Hong Kong Trade Development Center (HKTDC). An alliance between the industrial world and the government that aims as international marketing with a focus on manufacturers, traders and service providers. Since its establishment, HKTDC has opened international markets with buyers and business actors from all over the world as participants. Furthermore, Hong Kong became the main destination for world fashion purposes in the Asian region. However, not only for clothing, the HKTDC also holds special events for accessories, home appliances and other fashion-supporting industries. After nearly 40 years, Hong Kong, which regularly hosts Hong Kong Fashion Week and World Boutique Hong Kong twice a year, is famous as a fashion trading hub in Asia. With Hong Kong's rejoining the PRC, it has become a hub for exhibitions, brand representatives, buying agents and merchandising, and facilitating the sourcing of raw materials, accessories, and manufacturing grounds for major garment factories in the PRC.